Introduction: Retrospective Colonnade - (Full Size Powered by Snort Principal investigator)

First I wanted to thank you for taking a deal the build pass around for this Retro Arcade system. I am taking an older colonnade box and placing it in a standalone cabinet with a 24-inch widescreen monitor. Measurements on this guide are rough to springiness you an idea of how to pull turned a like design. Depending happening your case requirements and room quad your build can deviate quite lot. I placed a goodness parts list in the guide to serve you determine what you will need, I am sure enough a number of the Raspberry PI kits leave let in multiple items that can reduce the price, also things same old speakers, monitors, and power strips can drop the total terms point.

Let's catch to the fles, I stony-broke it into sections to make believe it a minute easier to follow.

Supplies

Case and frame:

  • 4ea
    • 1/4 Birchen or Pine plywood panels 24 inch (w) aside 24 inch (h)
  • 5ea
    • 1/4 Birch or Pine plywood panels 24 inch(w) by 36 column inch (h)
  • 5-6ea
    • 1in by 3in by 8ft True pine or true tulipwood dimensional log rough sanded
  • 3-4ea
    • 1in by 6in by 6ft Pine Oregon true tulipwood dimensional lumber rough sanded
  • 1ea
    • 1/4 Woody or pine plywood 24 inch (w) by 6 inch (h)
  • 1 roll (10-15 feet)
    • 1 1/4 (w) by 1/2 (thick) black foam weatherstrip
  • 1 coterie
    • #6 or #8 Grant Wood screws 1/2 inch
  • 1 pack
    • #6 or #8 Wood screws 2 inch
  • 4-5 cans
    • Spray paint with primer (colors and number depends on pattern)
  • 2ea
    • Skid lock up for doors (back and speaker arena)
  • 4ea
    • Hinges small

Retro Colonnade items:

  • Monitor (22-24 column inch)
    • If possible grab a used monitor since we leave scrap the shell and it won't be something to reuse
  • Raspberry Pi (version 3+ or break) with Might render for PI (51.99)

    • https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Razzing-Power-Sup...

  • Case for PI (6.49)

    • https://www.amazon.com/iUniker-Raspberry-Model-Tra...

  • Micro SD (13.00 -25.00)

    • https://web.amazon.com/Professional-SanDisk-MicroS...

  • USB hub (11.99)

    • https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Big-MacBook-Surf...

  • HDMI cable (Crataegus laevigata need DVI or VGA adapter for old monitors) (8.44)

    • https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Upper-HDM...

  • 3-6 outlet power strip (8.57)

    • https://www.amazon.com/GoGreen-Power-GG-16106MS-Ou...

  • External amalgamated power switch for case (9.99)
    • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNMT3WL/ref=p...
  • Speakers (19.99)
    • https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-Pebble-Black-...
  • Controllers (Superior): Red/Blue joysticks with illuminated scarlet/blue buttons (39.99)
    • https://www.Amazon River.com/Hikig-Buttons-joysticks-Co...
  • Stickers: Atari Games (6.99)
    • https://www.amazon.com/Popfunk-Classical-Collectibl...
  • USB Drive 32 GB (8.99)

    • https://www.amazon.com/SamData-Drives-Memory-Stora...

Tone 1: Lower Section

  • Subframe My focus for the subframe is all about weight, so using pine or whiteboard really worked fortunate. Make a point to predrill holes for your screws to avoid cracking the wood if using a Mandrillus leucophaeus place your screws. My lower section frame was built to a spec of 36 inch (h) by 24 inch (w) and 19 inch (d). I did subtract the 1/2 inch (width of the plyboard skin times cardinal panels). And so 35.5 (h) by 23.5 (w) away 18.5 (d).
  • Plyboard skin for this build was used to reduce the overall weight likewise as monetary value. I purchased extraordinary precut panels (24 aside 24) for the lead section and (24 past 48) that were clipped to size for the let down. Scraps from the trimmed panels will comprise used to make the platform between the bum and upper sections as good as sides of the marquee sections where the speakers are placed.
  • Note that I set a couple in the bottom to reduce stress from afoot the case too as limiting sway when performin games.

Step 2: Upper Section

  • The Arcade put for the top side section was made out of a combination of sizes of whitewood or pine dimensional wood. The front and sides are 1inch aside 6-inch boards and the mounts to the bring dow part are 1 inch past 3-inch boards. Additionally, the vertical supports are 1-inch by 3-inch boards.
  • The side panels were cut and formed to the frame (adequate the sides of the marquee) with a jigsaw. Used two of the 24 by 24 away 1/4 plyboard panels for this.
  • The marquee segment which testament hold up the speakers (two cutouts to allow sound into the top department of the character) was made with 1-inch away 6-in boards. The remnant sections were simple plywood panels to cover the endcap.
  • The speaker country is part of the marquee (and formerly I possess grills will have extraneous outlets to increase the quality of the sound)
  • I cut outer a section of one plyboard panel (24 past 24) to create the monitor bezel (frame), This was by far the ugliest part of the build causing ME to modify the bezel with an additional 1 by 3 frame and some foam stripping to pelt gaps. Take your time with the measurements and frame out the sides first and you will stimulate far fewer problems than I did with this portion of the case.

Step 3: Monitoring device Mounting

  • I wanted to play up this subdivision because it will vary depending along the hardware you pickax. I used the frame mount hardware on the monitor to attach IT to scrap plywood and and so to a 1 by 3 H compose. The monitor draw up is secured into the upper division by simple bomber blocks at the feet of the compose and at the top left and right-wing support. Notice the monitor bezel has been removed and the instrument panel is still attached. On some monitors, you might need the power to go on the proctor power operating room take inputs. I ilk to shortened the original button sections off the old monitor and secure them to the back end of the monitor for easy power on/off if needed.

Step 4: Access Doors

  • For this build I wanted deuce separate access doors, the lower allows access to the principal system and the upper allows access to the speakers.
    • The main access door is simply 1/4 plyboard that has two hinges added and a slide latch to secure the door. One note is since the instrument panel is precisely 1/4 thick, I created blocks to attach my hinges to the panel which ensured that my screws would not plug through the panel.
    • The speaker threshold has two retarded hinges and is successful out of 1-inch past 6-inch whitewood. I added a simple hitch to restrict the swing of the door and a simple handle to come through easier to catch up. Constructive bushings and wood screws took care of both tasks without additional purchases.

Step 5: Controller Mounting

  • Some of the primordial photos exhibit the controller dump as 1-inch away 6-inch whiteboard. I had to transfer it to a 1/4 away 5.5-inch section of birch plyboard to allow the joysticks to hold out through and through the board without issue. The first ikon shows that pannel after house painting and all of the buttons slew out. I used 7/8th hole cutters to piddle the buttonholes and 5/16th shovel bit to carve out the hole for the two joysticks.
  • These controllers are really easy to join simple modular connections from the button/stick to the controller then a USB connecter to the Hiss PI. I like to connect the controllers to a power-driven USB hub to remove stress on the Raspberry PI's primary power pack.
  • We installed 8 buttons for for each one player below are the layouts.

Controller control panel:

joystick(1) Y X L / BAR control stick(2) Y X L / Legal profession

Front panel:

(1) Start Select (2) Start Select

Step 6: Side of meat Dialog box Fused Superpowe Switch

  • Kind of than punch a gob for our power rifle, we mounted an external mightiness outlet with a fused switch. Depending on the model you leverage the wiring May diverge, simply be sure to use sleeved connections where the terminals are close together (reduce shorting risk). This connection as wel allows you to force the cabinet on/off without having to open it up.

Step 7: Equipment Set u

The photos therein section show the installment of the hardware

  • Picture unity and deuce show the final installation of the monitor and front bezel
  • Picture three and four appearance the froth strips (to shroud flaws in the panel cuts)
  • Picture five shows the placement and cable's length management of the Raspberry Private investigator 3+, USB hub, Game controller USB boards, powerstrip, and original monitor controls. I used velcro mag tape to secure the components to the bottom panel which arse be slid out the back of the case when the doorway is open.
  • The sixth photo is the final placement of the two USB speakers, they are positioned so the sound goes into the main section which gave the system of rules a pretty good sound.

Notes:

  • Connective to monitor connected this setup is HDMI to VGA.
  • The speakers came with USB-C major power, had to add an adapter to a standard USB connector.
  • Audio frequency is connected to the Raspberry Sherloc 3+ via the 3.5mm audio jack. Need to configure that as an outturn happening the system when setting it risen.

Step 8: Working Arcade Video

Here is the final working Colonnade with a PacMan theme for EMULATOR STATION (front end for the arcade)

  • Functional Arcade video

Some links for software that runs the arcade as well every bit the Raspberry Pi.

  • Retropie : site
  • Emulator Send: site
  • Boo Pi: web site

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